That’s pretty punk rock lol
One stronger shock made me realize it could get worse than a simple mild electrocution if I kept using it so I never turned it on afterwards. I moved to the guitar anyway so that was good timing!
First piece of gear I ever bought was an MPC 2500 not even realizing what a sampler was. I got rid of it when I realized it didn’t synthesize it’s own sound. Following that my first setup that I actually used was made up of a Yamaha RS7000 master sequencer / groove box, Alesia Micron and a MO-Phatt romper.
First time I hooked it all up I was super stoked to get it going. Got all the midi sorted, hit play, no sound. I was so pissed after some googling to learn that MIDI didn’t carry audio and I was going to have to wait for more cables to arrive before I could actually hear it all, lol.
Shortly after that I discovered Elektron, that would have been 2008 or so. I then sold all that for a Monomachine and have been a fanboi ever since.
Cables are the bane of hardware. When you buy some hardware (not necessary musical) and a necessary cable is not provided in the box… urgghhh. It’s like buying a brand new car and you’d have to buy one wheel separately
Actually i lied, i had a boss drum machine before that but i dont remember what it was other than a pos. And a 4 track tape thing. But i consider the above post my first real setup.
haha, I had a brief phrase were I was just trying any inexpensive piece of vintage gear I could get a deal on, my experience taught me unless there is something really special about a particular piece of vintage gear I just NEED…not worth my time LOL
I had, I think, a boss drum machine that as well known because of some of the included break loops. It was kinda like cheap jungle breaks machine in a box. That and the SP 202. Both kinda nightmare. I almost just threw them out but that seemed like a waste since they both worked.
Well I solved my NL4 recording issue–I just bought a new recording interface. Simple as that.
Really happy with it thus far but just today I noticed 3 of the modulation knobs are skipping values. It’ll go from like 1.1 to 1.3 then to 1.5 then 1.6 then 1.8 etc. It adds up to about half the values being skipped.
I’m kind of wondering what I’m supposed to do about this. I don’t want to return it, but if half the values are skipping it’s a real issue.
I’m probably not saying something you’ve not thought of here but it might be worth contacting Nord just to see if it is a known issue and/or to get a line on how to fix it or who to send it to.
I second Relic here, with Nord being a relatively small company, I’d ask them if it’s a known issue before assuming it’s broken. See what the latest firmware is, whether you have it, whether the changelog indicates this is/was an issue and whether it’s being worked on or solved. Not the most fun, I know, I have a Super 6 and the firmware version on that is 0.26 right now. USB Midi is not yet a thing, actual Midi is hit and miss, I discovered an error with how DDS2 pans which is now in their buglist to fix. MPE is on the front panel, not yet implemented.
It’s a great synth, don’t get me wrong, but it’s also a small team and still very much a work in progress. I could see Nord in the same position. And, not that I’m having a bad time here, but it’s something I’m going to pay much more attention to when I buy a synth in the future. I’m okay with having one synth like this, for now, but I certainly don’t want all my synths in this position.
Potentiometers can become skippy if not used for a long time, or with wear and tear. The one on my ARQ skips, when going forwards, but not backwards strangely enough. This is a pain, but if push it slightly up as I turn, it doesn’t. The main select on the JV1010 can jump about a lot. Again if I pull it slightly to the left as I turn, it’s o.k. Not an ideal solution, but such is life and hardware.
FabFilter Saturn for the iPad might be the greatest thing I’ve come across in a while. It is probably one of the best VSTs I’ve ever used and you are telling me I can have it as part of my iPad pedal board? It is also only $24. That’ll do nicely as the saturation unit I was looking for to slap on the Digitakt output.
And the digitakt integrates beautifully with the Ipad…
Yes, I imagine it does well as a sequencer? Going to give that a shot at some point. I’m determined to like the iPad as a part of my setup
Oh right! OB, USB audio, that’s all always been off my radar. Not sure what exactly I’d do with that…maybe exactly what I’m planning? I guess I could also theoretically get some EQ on each channel through like AUM or something? Or is it just the master over USB?
I think it’s just the master, but I think you can run the audio 2 ways, I seem to remember someone had a video up where they were monitoring AUM as a mixer through the digitakt outputs. With the digitakt going into AUM as well as sequencing some synths.
It’s been a while but it did seem neat.
I’ll have a peak around at that. Even if the audio is going one way, that’s a powerful and portable little setup.
My favourite part of the E2 was using it with the iPad. And it didn’t do audio over USB, just midi but I used the headphones out of the iPad to the external ins of the E2. So USB audio would be sick!
It’s 2 ways, so you can just plug in an iPad and just monitor everything through it. I think it’s the same on the model cycles and samples
I wanted a cheap stereo mixer for my Eurorack,
I noticed a built Befaco ST Mix costs approx £134
A DIY Befaco ST Mix kit costs approx £60
or just the PCB/Panel for approx £30.
I looked at the bill of materials and had an idea, i could just buy the PCB/Panel and buy components far superior to what you get in the kit for cheaper than the kit.
All the capacitors in the kit are ceramic, i replaced them with WIMA film capacitors (the red ones) these cost 25x the price of a ceramic, and Silver Mica capacitors (the black ones), i managed to get the Silver Micas for approx £1 each but folk on ebay are selling them for £5 each and upwards Hardly anybody uses Silver Mica anymore because they’re simply too big and too expensive, they were invented in 1909 and were put into large scale commercial production to meet military requirements in World War I as Mica is less prone to crack under mechanical shock, a useful property for equipment subject to shellfire, Mica are very stable.
The standard op-amps in the kit are TL072, TL072 are a great audio op-amp you’ll find them in just about every commercial audio product nowadays they cost approx £0.80 each, however i’ve used Burr Brown OPA2134 op-amps instead they cost approx £4.00 each have far less noise and higher headroom.
So basically this cheap Befaco Mixer will technically have better audio fidelity and more headroom than any eurorack mixer sold on the market today and costs me less than £60.
So folk will ask what does it sound like compared to an original one, and id say i havnt got a clue because i havnt got an original one , it just made sense to me that if it was at the end of the chain and was summing 4 stereo inputs then the quality audio path and better performing op-amps was the way to go.
But remember this is a mixer other modules like oscillators or filters etc sometimes benefit from cheap less accurate components which give them their character, the best ain’t always the best.